Wednesday, December 19, 2012

When You Care Enough...

I can’t escape some stories.  You know the ones.  Those tragic tales of antique vehicle neglect, oversight or just a plain lack of understanding that allows a piece to deteriorate… those accounts can make us all cringe.  Not long ago, I had another person share about an early horse-drawn wagon he had purchased that – at least when he first saw it – still retained a significant amount of original paint.  The seller, though, thinking he would do the buyer a favor, decided to ‘clean’ the wagon up a bit before the buyer arrived.  Taking a high pressure water hose, he blasted the entire vehicle.  Of course, once the buyer arrived to pick up the purchase, he noted that the wagon looked totally different.  The pressurized water not only took off the stains from mud dauber nests and bird droppings but, also stripped the wagon almost bare of its paint and logos.  It’s yet one more reminder than the presence of an original painted finish cannot be duplicated and is therefore irreplaceable.  I’ll cover more on this element of ‘originality’ in a later blog or feature article as it is increasingly part of collector and enthusiast conversations. 

 
Not to be outdone, it seems vehicle owners from the late 1800’s also needed to be reminded of the importance of proper care of wood-wheeled wagons and carriages.  Throughout the Wheels That Won The West® archives, there are regular reminders from manufacturers and industry experts as to how to preserve and protect the looks, functionality and resale value of a set of wheels.  With that as a backdrop, we thought we’d share a few common recommendations distributed by multiple 19th century makers as to how to best care for a horse drawn vehicle in use during that time.  We’ve added some additional thoughts in italics after several of the itemized points.

1. The vehicle should be kept in an airy, dry coach house, There should be a moderate amount of light; otherwise the colors will be affected. The windows should be curtained, to avoid having direct sunlight strike upon a carriage.  (Extended direct and even indirect exposure to light can have significant and irreversible effects on original paint and logo transfers) 

2. There should be no communication between the stable and the coach house. The manure heap should also be located as far away from the carriage house as possible. Ammonia fumes crack and destroy varnish, and fade the colors both of painting and lining. Also avoid having a carriage stand near a brick wall, as the dampness from the wall will fade the colors and destroy the varnish.  (Dampness and ammonia can have even more devastating effects than the impact mentioned here on paint and varnish.  These elements will also work to rust, pit and erode most every part of an early wood-wheeled vehicle)

3. Whenever a carriage stands unused for several days, it should be protected by a large cotton cover sufficiently strong to keep off the dust, without altogether excluding the light. Dust, when allowed to settle on a carriage, eats into the varnish. Care should be taken to keep this cover dry. (Dust-free environments are almost impossible to achieve.  Recognizing the enemies of a collector-grade vehicle is the first step to preserving it for generations to come.)

4. Never allow mud to remain long enough to dry on a vehicle or spots and stains may result.

5. While washing a carriage, keep it out of the sun. Use plenty of water, taking great care that it is not driven into the body, to the injury of the lining. Use for the body panels a large, soft sponge; when saturated, squeeze this over the panels, and, by the flowing down of the water, the dirt will soften and harmlessly run off. 

6. The directions just given for washing the body apply as well to the under parts and wheels, but use for the latter a different sponge and chamois than those used on the body. Never use a spoke brush, which, in conjunction with the grit from the road, would act like sand paper on the varnish, scratching it and of course removing the gloss.

7. Never allow water to dry of itself on a carriage, as it would invariably leave stains. Hot water or soap should never be used in washing a varnished surface.

8. Enameled-leather tops, and aprons should be washed with very weak soap and water. No oil should be put on enameled leather.  (a dilution of Murphy’s Oil Soap with distilled water works well)

9. To prevent or destroy moths in woolen linings, use turpentine and camphor. In the case of a closed carriage the simple evaporation from the mixture, when placed in a saucer (the glass being closed,) will be found a certain cure.

10. Inspect the entire carriage occasionally, and whenever a bolt or clip appears to be getting loose, tighten it up with a wrench, and always have little repairs done at once. Should the tires of the wheels get at all slack, so that the joints of the felloes become visible, have them immediately contracted or the wheels may be permanently injured.

11. Examine the axles frequently; keep them well oiled, and see that the washers (for carriages) are in good order. Pure sperm oil is considered the best for lubricating purposes; castor oil will answer; but never sweet oil, as it will gum up. Be careful in replacing the axle-nuts, not to cross the thread or strain them.

12. Leather top carriages should never stand long in the carriage house with the top down. After raising the top, "break" the joints slightly to take off the strain on the webstay and leather. Aprons of every kind should be frequently unfolded, or they will soon spoil.  (In similar fashion, it’s important to remember that wood will expand and contract with variations in temperature and humidity.  Beyond efforts to maintain the proper atmospheric conditions when caring for an antique wagon, it’s good not to overly tighten the box rods to allow for slight flexibility during inactive display or storage). 

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Wagons of the Old West – Part II

As I shared last week, there are a number of features seen on many surviving dead axle (sans springs) wagons today that were not traditionally available on early vehicles.  One area of difference is that of the primary assembly methods of early wagons.
Most wagon gears from the 1870’s and before are through-bolted.  That is, the axles, bolsters and sandboards are connected by drilling holes through them and bolting the sections together.  After this timeframe, it is possible to see both through-bolted and ‘clipped’ gears.  Instead of using straight bolts to connect the various gear sections, clipped running gears are essentially held together by a series of U-bolts wrapped around the same areas. 

Through-bolted wagon gear
While some makers persisted in using the older, through-bolted system well into the 20th century, after the 1880’s, many major manufacturers had made the switch to clipped construction within their higher priced offerings as it was touted to provide stronger support.

Clipped wagon gear
Today, there are surviving examples of both types of construction.  Was one truly better than the other?  The answer often lies within the type of terrain and specific uses a vehicle might be subjected to.  Certainly not all wagons needed heavier reinforcement – nor the cost associated with it.  Beyond all of these details, the primary point I’m making is that we owe it to future generations to pass along accurate history.  Recognizing vehicle facts along with specific features commonplace in certain eras is the first step in helping showcase the true history of America’s earliest transportation industry.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Wagons of the Old West - Part I

We’ve all heard the saying, ‘Perception is reality’ but, the truth is, sometimes it isn’t.  Over the last twenty years, I’ve heard a lot of statements made about early western vehicles.  Some are based in documented facts backed up by primary sources while other remarks are merely a repeat of comments heard so often they’re assumed to be true.
Part of the function of any historian is to help point out false perceptions from reality.  After all, while perceptions can fluctuate, true history is fixed.  The same thing occurs with the design of early western vehicles.  Some technologies on vintage wagons were not available until certain timeframes.  Cast thimble skeins, steel skeins, rotating reaches, hub band variations and many other features all had innovative beginnings as they were incorporated into heavy wagons and work vehicles.     

Despite these realities, some of my favorite – even well-researched – western theme movies have persisted in employing 20th century-built wagons on early, mid and later 1800’s sets.  I’ve covered many of the “general” differences between vehicle brands and time periods within several vehicle presentations I’ve given to groups all over the U.S.
Unfortunately, there isn’t enough space in these short blog posts to cover every variation and distinction.  That said, one area that can be briefly examined is the way in which the gear is assembled on an early, dead axle wagon.  There are two general forms of constructing a wagon’s running gear (undercarriage).  One is the ‘through-bolted’ method and the other technique involves ‘clipped’ gears. I’ll cover more on this in next week’s post.  In the meantime, if you have a specific question you’d like answered, feel free to drop us a line at info@wheelsthatwonthewest.com    

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

A Sweet Victory

Paging through the history of the 19th and early 20th centuries, there were many areas of the U.S. recognized for producing excellent wood-wheeled transportation.  Certainly, the state of Wisconsin was no stranger to accolades for quality vehicles.  In fact, it was home to a number of major wagon and carriage makers that are still highly touted today.  Among those legendary heavy vehicle brands are Mitchell, LaBelle, Bain, Racine-Sattley, Stoughton, Mandt, and Fish Bros.  Also included in this list are makers like Northwestern Manufacturing (Fort Atkinson), Vaughn Manufacturing Company (Jefferson), Smith Manufacturing (La Crosse), White Wagon Works (Sheboygan Falls), and B.F. & H.L. Sweet from Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. 


While Sweet was a respected brand – with several wagon-related patents to its credit – the company’s influence was predominantly regional in scope.  Large scale state fairs, however, gave strong but smaller makers, like Sweet, a platform on the same level with major national brands.  Most of the regional firms had nothing to lose and everything to gain by going head-to-head with the large, national brands in these venues.  Thus, in 1888, Sweet dared to step into the competitive limelight with numerous other brands at the Wisconsin State Fair in Milwaukee.  Showcasing their craftsmanship alongside some of the most powerful names in 19th century transportation, Sweet ultimately found the risk to be worth the rewards.

Like most state fairs of the time, the event was rife with rivalry.  Everything from fine art, leather, and textiles to agricultural products, machinery, and household wares like stoves and cabinetry, were judged and awarded prizes.  Not to be left out, manufacturers of carriages, wagons and sleighs were also looking for bragging rights.  After all, not only did these prominent competitions draw large crowds but they also provided fodder for a great deal of advertising and promotional hyperbole that could be effectively used for years to come.  During this state fair, B.F. & H.L. Sweet took first place in a number of areas including the Best Two-Seated Light Sleigh… Best Fancy Lumber Wagon… Best Double Farm Sleigh… and, Second Best Double Farm Sleigh.  They also took top honors for the Best Heavy Logging Sleigh.

Finding the higher quality and best collectible, horse-drawn vehicles from the 1800’s and early 1900’s has become more and more difficult.  It’s a multi-part challenge based in part on the ability to both recognize notable survivors as well as understand what elements contribute to the vehicle’s long-term importance.  Doug Hansen of Hansen Wheel and Wagon Shop recently shared a nice “Sweet” wagon find with us.  This exceptional wagon will date to the early 1900’s.  It’s in remarkable condition with strong original paint, transfer graphics on the box, and well-defined wood contours.  It will make a solid addition to about any early vehicle collection.  Our thanks to Doug for passing along these images. 

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

The Weight of the Matter

For thousands of years, gross and net weights have helped determine prices on livestock, products and raw materials. It’s an essential part of business that spans from the smallest to the largest items. As with retailers and wholesale operations all over the U.S. today, certified scales were essential to business transactions throughout early America.


Wagon scales, in particular, were used in both pit and pitless configurations. In each scenario, the wagon would be driven across a large, flat and balanced surface which was connected to the balance beam of a scale. The vehicle would be weighed both empty as well as with the entire load. The difference between the two sums told the scale operator the amount of material in the wagon.


Other than images from century-old advertisements, it’s difficult to find these types of scales today. Since many of these wagon scales sat outside, they have typically succumbed to the deteriorating effects of time and weather.


The circa 1880 scale and housing shown here is part of an interpretive presentation within a small portion of the Wheels That Won The West® collection. Incredibly, the scales were found packed inside wooden shipping boxes, still in their original straw and paper wrappings; a rare, unused find that helps reinforce the legendary purpose and legacy of heavier, wood wheeled horse drawn vehicles.

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Lost Military Vehicles

It was the spring of 1864.  Years had passed since the onset of civil war in America and time continued to tear at the very foundations of the nation.  Bloodshed saturated the soil, families were ripped apart and nefarious ne’er-do-wells roamed the countryside targeting innocents without mercy.  It was a period of relentless suffering yet more heartache was still to be sewn as this War-Between-the-States would not officially end for another year.

In south central Arkansas , as with other areas of the country, the Union and Confederate armies were on the move.  Echoes of cannons, gunfire and troop movements filled the forests and fields.  Even so, on the last day of April, yet another familiar enemy re-entered the front lines.  It took the form of threatening clouds and distant rumblings.  But, soon enough, the weather would take center stage.  As the sky grew dark, lightning flashed and rocketed over the troops, thunder shook the ground and the heavens unleashed a torrent of rain.  Walls of water poured onto these war-weary veterans. Through it all, thousands of men and mules and hundreds upon hundreds of four-mule army wagons heaved and slogged their way through the old coach road from Camden to Little Rock .  It was a massive effort, full of suspense, void of contentment and all about to come to a head at the Jenkin’s Ferry river crossing.


Here, the northern contingency was in a race.  A race for time.  A race for advantage.  A race for their very lives.  Around them, Confederate soldiers were on the offensive.  The Union troops, led by General Frederick Steele, were beating a hasty but hard retreat to their closest stronghold in Little Rock . Click here to read the rest of the story on the Wheels That Won The West® website.

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Horse Drawn Transitions

Throughout 200 years of horse drawn wagon manufacturing in the U.S, there were a lot of innovations and transitions – not just in the vehicle design and production processes but in the development of accessories as well.
One segment that saw a wealth of changes involved the foundation of every wagon - the wheel.  While some of the evolution in this area took place in the 1700 and 1800’s, other modifications occurred in the 20th century.  A good example lies with the conversion by many users from wooden wheels to rubber tires or, more specifically, from steel-tired wooden wheels to rubber-tired steel rims.  The transition was understandable.  Times had changed and, especially during a good part of the 1920’s, 30’s, 40’s, 50’s and even 60’s, wooden wagons were predominantly used on farms and/or improved roads.  Users wanted a smooth, quiet ride that was lower to the ground, typically being more stable and easier to load than the higher wheeled wagons. 

While some farmers and ranchers merely cut down the wooden wheels on their wagons and had them placed inside steel rims with rubber tires, others took advantage of skein adaptors that could be bolted to traditional vehicle rims.  These types of adaptors could be purchased from a number of outlets including large catalog houses like Montgomery Ward. 

The photos shown in this blog feature a set of these skein adaptors that were originally purchased in the 1930’s to be used on a high wheel wagon.  These kits included five bolts that connected to the wheel rim while the sleeve, itself, slid over the wagon skein and was held on by the skein nut.  The system was extremely efficient and allowed for quick modifications without permanently altering the original wheels belonging to the wagon.  Simple, effective and modestly priced, these adaptors also allowed the wagon to be used as a trailer on improved roads.  It was one more feature that extended the use of vintage wooden wagons well into 20th century America.