Put The Brakes On

Occasionally, I receive emails asking about markings on the brake ratchet of a vehicle.  While many of these ratchets do not have identifying alpha or numeric characters cast into them, many others do and that’s where the questions begin.  Is this the vehicle maker?  Does this information help identify the age of the vehicle?  Was this brake style exclusive to a particular brand?  The quick answer to these questions is ‘no’ as well as ‘yes.’  What I mean is that every situation can be different and without a detailed evaluation, it’s not prudent to make assumptions. 

With that as our backdrop, there are a few things we can generally address in the limited space of this blog post.  From the time the first brake ratchet was bolted to a wagon sideboard, there have been many different styles created and used.  By the late 1800’s and throughout the early 1900’s, a general consolidation of side board ratchet types took place – at least with most major makers.  Our “Making Tracks” limited edition print (offered on our website) includes an overview of several primary brake ratchet styles. 

Sometimes, it’s assumed that the name on the brake is the actual brake ratchet type.  To my point in the first paragraph above – this can be true.  More often, though, a name cast into a wagon’s brake ratchet will refer to the maker of the part itself.  If all this seems confusing, consider this as well… There was a major manufacturer of brake ratchets by the name of Geisler located in Muscatine, Iowa.  This firm produced countless pieces of brake hardware for hundreds, if not thousands of wagon builders.  In the process, they often cast their “maker” name into the ratchet face.  Complicating matters more, one of the company’s brake designs was so popular it became commonly referred to as the ‘Geisler.’  So, in this case, the part name and brake maker name were both the same.

Hold on because it can get even more confusing.  Hurlbut, another prominent brake ratchet manufacturer located in Racine, Wisconsin, had a patent on an equally popular style of brake that came to be known as the “Hurlbut.”  Similar to Geisler, Hurlbut also cast their name into the brakes they made.  So, like Geisler, there were many ‘Hurlbut’ brakes with the Hurlbut Manufacturing Company name cast into them.  However, once Hurlbut’s patent had expired on the “Hurbut” design, Geisler also offered the Hurlbut design, and in the process, they cast their name - as manufacturer - into the design commonly referred to as a ‘Hurlbut.’  So, it’s not uncommon today to find a ‘Hurlbut’ brake with the Geisler maker name cast into it.  These simple acts of promotion by Geisler - while understood in their day – are sometimes sufficient to cause confusion as to the correct technical name of the brake design.  Just remember… a Hurlbut’s still a Hurlbut – even if it says it was made by ‘Geisler.’    

Hurlbut brake designs made by both Hurlbut & Geisler Manufacturing companies.

If this hasn’t muddied the waters enough, remind me to discuss the “Studebaker” ratchet sometime.  It was copied and sold to countless makers and, other than mirroring the Studebaker design, it cannot be used to conclusively identify a Studebaker wagon. 

This extremely brief overview of just one brake ratchet design clearly demonstrates the complexities involved when assessing cast markings found on vintage vehicles.  Many makers used the exact same or very similar parts as other builders.  It’s yet another reason why reliable research and authoritative identification requires us to slow down and Put The Brakes On.

New Starts

Starting a new year reminds me that every day is full of fresh opportunities to learn while adding even more interesting experiences to the life we’ve been given.  For western vehicle enthusiasts, it’s another shot at exploring, locating and helping preserve the kind of history that played a vital role in the growth of the American West.  To get it all done, all we need to do is to dig… and dig and dig some more.  It’s a process that takes persistence and a readiness to be open to the facts as they fall.  In the absence of unfounded assumptions, the rewards can be surprising.  It’s a lesson that’s helped us open doors to even more rare imagery and information about brands like Moline, Studebaker, Peter Schuttler, Ft. Smith, Jackson, Winona, Weber, Mogul, Mitchell, Kentucky, Old Hickory and so many more in 2012.

Among the more intriguing finds we’ve had in the past year or so have been a series of rare freight wagon tintypes.  One, in particular, has invoked a fair amount of curiosity with questions related to the vehicle’s design and - more specifically - to possible evolutionary clues between the legendary Conestoga freight wagons and the tall-sided freighters that ultimately dominated so much of the western frontier.  Other interesting acquisitions include several cattle-drive-era chuck wagon images as well as a rare photo we’ve identified as a trio of Peter Schuttler freight wagons on the Fort Pierre to Deadwood trail (circa 1880).  We’ll unveil the first glimpses of this photo as another Wheels That Won The West® exclusive in the upcoming Volume 2 edition of our “Borrowed Time” western vehicle book series.

 As we begin this new year, we’re already actively engaged in researching a surviving Montana freight wagon, studying details on early iron wagons, searching for a specific nineteenth century Studebaker gear, exploring multiple mud coach designs and continuing to collect some of the rarest details on St. Louis work vehicles from the mid to late 1800’s.  It’s a process that continues to yield important insights into America’s first transportation industry and we’re pleased to share from these discoveries within our blog, e-newsletters, publications and speaking engagements.  So stay tuned.  If the past is any indicator, I’m confident 2013 will yield even more answers in our quest to know more about America’s early western wheels.

Steamboats & Wagons

While many wagons and western vehicles can look very similar, the truth is that no two are exactly alike.  For me, some of the most interesting surviving wagons and coaches are those with a solid provenance.  The intriguing stories attached to many of these vehicles reinforce their individuality while often reaffirming their worth and significance to modern audiences. 

Such is the case with what is likely the earliest surviving, factory-built western wagon in America.  Several years ago I wrote a feature-length article on this vehicle for The Carriage Journal magazine and will share even more about it in our upcoming Volume 2 edition of the “Borrowed Time” book series. 

The short version of the story involves the discovery and recovery of a westward bound steamboat that sank on the Missouri River in 1856.  On board were 200 tons of supplies for the American frontier.  Part of that amazing payload was a substantially intact high wheel wagon gear.  As a western vehicle historian, that’s where the story, for me, went from extremely interesting to absolutely captivating. 

After multiple trips to the museum and making arrangements to extensively photograph and document the vehicle, we were the first to confirm the maker to be Peter Schuttler.  Not only is the gear surprisingly solid after being buried for over 130 years but, it also holds the distinction of being the oldest surviving set of wheels from this legendary builder.  As such, it deserves a place on the ‘must see’ list for any wagon and western vehicle enthusiast.  To learn more about the Arabia Steamboat Museum or schedule a trip to visit them in Kansas City, Missouri, check out their website at www.1856.com   -  And for an extensive and close-up look at this recovered Schuttler gear, don’t miss your chance to obtain a Limited Edition copy of “Borrowed Time, Volume 2”.  It’s scheduled to be available in late 2013.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year

When You Care Enough...

I can’t escape some stories.  You know the ones.  Those tragic tales of antique vehicle neglect, oversight or just a plain lack of understanding that allows a piece to deteriorate… those accounts can make us all cringe.  Not long ago, I had another person share about an early horse-drawn wagon he had purchased that – at least when he first saw it – still retained a significant amount of original paint.  The seller, though, thinking he would do the buyer a favor, decided to ‘clean’ the wagon up a bit before the buyer arrived.  Taking a high pressure water hose, he blasted the entire vehicle.  Of course, once the buyer arrived to pick up the purchase, he noted that the wagon looked totally different.  The pressurized water not only took off the stains from mud dauber nests and bird droppings but, also stripped the wagon almost bare of its paint and logos.  It’s yet one more reminder than the presence of an original painted finish cannot be duplicated and is therefore irreplaceable.  I’ll cover more on this element of ‘originality’ in a later blog or feature article as it is increasingly part of collector and enthusiast conversations. 

 

Not to be outdone, it seems vehicle owners from the late 1800’s also needed to be reminded of the importance of proper care of wood-wheeled wagons and carriages.  Throughout the Wheels That Won The West^® archives, there are regular reminders from manufacturers and industry experts as to how to preserve and protect the looks, functionality and resale value of a set of wheels.  With that as a backdrop, we thought we’d share a few common recommendations distributed by multiple 19th century makers as to how to best care for a horse drawn vehicle in use during that time.  We’ve added some additional thoughts in italics after several of the itemized points.

1. The vehicle should be kept in an airy, dry coach house, There should be a moderate amount of light; otherwise the colors will be affected. The windows should be curtained, to avoid having direct sunlight strike upon a carriage.  (Extended direct and even indirect exposure to light can have significant and irreversible effects on original paint and logo transfers) 

2. There should be no communication between the stable and the coach house. The manure heap should also be located as far away from the carriage house as possible. Ammonia fumes crack and destroy varnish, and fade the colors both of painting and lining. Also avoid having a carriage stand near a brick wall, as the dampness from the wall will fade the colors and destroy the varnish.  (Dampness and ammonia can have even more devastating effects than the impact mentioned here on paint and varnish.  These elements will also work to rust, pit and erode most every part of an early wood-wheeled vehicle)

3. Whenever a carriage stands unused for several days, it should be protected by a large cotton cover sufficiently strong to keep off the dust, without altogether excluding the light. Dust, when allowed to settle on a carriage, eats into the varnish. Care should be taken to keep this cover dry. (Dust-free environments are almost impossible to achieve.  Recognizing the enemies of a collector-grade vehicle is the first step to preserving it for generations to come.)

4. Never allow mud to remain long enough to dry on a vehicle or spots and stains may result.

5. While washing a carriage, keep it out of the sun. Use plenty of water, taking great care that it is not driven into the body, to the injury of the lining. Use for the body panels a large, soft sponge; when saturated, squeeze this over the panels, and, by the flowing down of the water, the dirt will soften and harmlessly run off. 

6. The directions just given for washing the body apply as well to the under parts and wheels, but use for the latter a different sponge and chamois than those used on the body. Never use a spoke brush, which, in conjunction with the grit from the road, would act like sand paper on the varnish, scratching it and of course removing the gloss.

7. Never allow water to dry of itself on a carriage, as it would invariably leave stains. Hot water or soap should never be used in washing a varnished surface.

8. Enameled-leather tops, and aprons should be washed with very weak soap and water. No oil should be put on enameled leather.  (a dilution of Murphy’s Oil Soap with distilled water works well)

9. To prevent or destroy moths in woolen linings, use turpentine and camphor. In the case of a closed carriage the simple evaporation from the mixture, when placed in a saucer (the glass being closed,) will be found a certain cure.

10. Inspect the entire carriage occasionally, and whenever a bolt or clip appears to be getting loose, tighten it up with a wrench, and always have little repairs done at once. Should the tires of the wheels get at all slack, so that the joints of the felloes become visible, have them immediately contracted or the wheels may be permanently injured.

11. Examine the axles frequently; keep them well oiled, and see that the washers (for carriages) are in good order. Pure sperm oil is considered the best for lubricating purposes; castor oil will answer; but never sweet oil, as it will gum up. Be careful in replacing the axle-nuts, not to cross the thread or strain them.

12. Leather top carriages should never stand long in the carriage house with the top down. After raising the top, "break" the joints slightly to take off the strain on the webstay and leather. Aprons of every kind should be frequently unfolded, or they will soon spoil.  (In similar fashion, it’s important to remember that wood will expand and contract with variations in temperature and humidity.  Beyond efforts to maintain the proper atmospheric conditions when caring for an antique wagon, it’s good not to overly tighten the box rods to allow for slight flexibility during inactive display or storage). 

Wagons of the Old West – Part II

As I shared last week, there are a number of features seen on many surviving dead axle (sans springs) wagons today that were not traditionally available on early vehicles.  One area of difference is that of the primary assembly methods of early wagons.

Most wagon gears from the 1870’s and before are through-bolted.  That is, the axles, bolsters and sandboards are connected by drilling holes through them and bolting the sections together.  After this timeframe, it is possible to see both through-bolted and ‘clipped’ gears.  Instead of using straight bolts to connect the various gear sections, clipped running gears are essentially held together by a series of U-bolts wrapped around the same areas. 



Through-bolted wagon gear

While some makers persisted in using the older, through-bolted system well into the 20th century, after the 1880’s, many major manufacturers had made the switch to clipped construction within their higher priced offerings as it was touted to provide stronger support.



Clipped wagon gear

Today, there are surviving examples of both types of construction.  Was one truly better than the other?  The answer often lies within the type of terrain and specific uses a vehicle might be subjected to.  Certainly not all wagons needed heavier reinforcement – nor the cost associated with it.  Beyond all of these details, the primary point I’m making is that we owe it to future generations to pass along accurate history.  Recognizing vehicle facts along with specific features commonplace in certain eras is the first step in helping showcase the true history of America’s earliest transportation industry.

Wagons of the Old West - Part I

We’ve all heard the saying, ‘Perception is reality’ but, the truth is, sometimes it isn’t.  Over the last twenty years, I’ve heard a lot of statements made about early western vehicles.  Some are based in documented facts backed up by primary sources while other remarks are merely a repeat of comments heard so often they’re assumed to be true.

Part of the function of any historian is to help point out false perceptions from reality.  After all, while perceptions can fluctuate, true history is fixed.  The same thing occurs with the design of early western vehicles.  Some technologies on vintage wagons were not available until certain timeframes.  Cast thimble skeins, steel skeins, rotating reaches, hub band variations and many other features all had innovative beginnings as they were incorporated into heavy wagons and work vehicles.     



Despite these realities, some of my favorite – even well-researched – western theme movies have persisted in employing 20th century-built wagons on early, mid and later 1800’s sets.  I’ve covered many of the “general” differences between vehicle brands and time periods within several vehicle presentations I’ve given to groups all over the U.S.

Unfortunately, there isn’t enough space in these short blog posts to cover every variation and distinction.  That said, one area that can be briefly examined is the way in which the gear is assembled on an early, dead axle wagon.  There are two general forms of constructing a wagon’s running gear (undercarriage).  One is the ‘through-bolted’ method and the other technique involves ‘clipped’ gears. I’ll cover more on this in next week’s post.  In the meantime, if you have a specific question you’d like answered, feel free to drop us a line at info@wheelsthatwonthewest.com